If you are passing through Samobor, try the local delicacy Samoborska Kremsnita… people often travel long distances to savour this melt-in-the-mouth dessert,” the friendly hotel manager at Esplanade Zagreb advises us, as we leave the city.

Vijaya Pratap on the most chilling 45 minutes of her life

He also teaches me to pronounce it correctly – “crem shneetha” dropping the last syllable softly. I repeat gently till I get it right. By then we have reached Samobor, an ancient town located only twenty-five kilometres away from Zagreb, the capital of Croatia.

In the quaint little town, our spirited guide Silvio conducts the tour, often stopping to greet the butcher, the grocer, the baker and the watch maker. He reminds me of Topol in Fiddler on the Roof … singing, whistling, chattering, except, no, he doesn’t converse with God.

IFlower pots hanging from balconies greet us everywhere and cyclists smile at Silvio, giving us way. We admire the Baroque architecture and churches dating back to the 13th century. Medieval to the core, the ancient town recently celebrated its 770th birthday and is said to be one of northern Croatia’s best-preserved country towns, surrounded by astounding nature and historic sites.

The overpoweringly romantic “Kavana Livadic”, known for serving the best Kremsnita in town is filled with flowers, colour and cheer. Giggling waitresses bring us a serving of soft, crumbly kremsnita. It has a puff pastry top and has a predominantly custard cream filling, lightened with whipped cream. It is finished with powdered sugar. I click several pictures of the delicacate dessert, carefully holding it up against the flowers for maximum drama. I savour every spoonful that melts on my tongue, as the flowers in the courtyard sway in consent; thanks to Samobor, for giving birth to a delightful dessert!

Vijaya Pratap is a freelance journalist and a documentary filmmaker, based in Hyderabad. She specialises in the study of art, culture, history and wildlife.

Meet the Author – Vijayapratap

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