What’s the lure of the world’s costliest, most exclusive and ultimate gourmet coffee, Kopi Luwak? A friend, in 2010, had paid 28 Australian dollars to sip on the brew while she was in Bali. Surely, just a cup of coffee could not live up to such a high price. I planned to investigate. On my recent trip to Indonesia, sign boards on coffee shops advertising the celebrated brew, with pictures of the civet cat, caught my attention. Not to be missed were the prominently displayed lumps of coffee seeds in a bamboo container, as though they are put there to dry. When I asked my guide Sumarta about Kopi Luwak, he took me to Teba Sari in Ubud (Bali), a farm set in the paddy fields along a placid water body. Walking through the spice garden, we went past civet cats in cages, some bored, some restless, but all of them invariably sad. Amidst rustic settings sat a cheerful young girl roasting coffee seeds.
In fact, Kopi Luwak or Civet Coffee is a form of processing than a variety of coffee. It is made from the coffee berries eaten by the civet cat and then passed through its digestive system. The civet cat chooses and eats the best ripe berries. The proteolytic enzymes and other amino acids in its stomach pass into the beans. The beans are then excreted, keeping their shape. Later, they are thoroughly washed, dried, roasted and brewed. This process gives the coffee a distinctive flavour profile, that apparently gives it a taste described as “smooth, chocolatey and devoid of any bitter aftertaste.”
Kopi Luwak is expensive because of the short supply versus the high demand, the unique taste and the unusual production methods. Luwak, being a small animal, can eat only small amounts of coffee berries each day; hence the processed beans can’t be in large volumes. There are farms all over Indonesia like Teba Sari, which cater to the increasing popularity of this coffee. Thus enlightened on Kopi Luwak, we sat on polished mahogany logs fashioned like benches, watching a glorious sunset. Cindy brought a tray full of different coffees and teas in tiny cups. I tasted turmeric, ginseng and lemongrass teas.
On the lure of the world’s most expensive cup of coffee, Kopi Luwak
Watching my silence, Sumarta reflected “Luwak coffee tastes good, but one has to forget where it comes from.” My stance, still, was “No, thanks” to Kopi Luwak.
The next few days, during coffee breaks, the conversation revolved around coffee and the Luwak’s contribution. Locals said that many of them can’t afford the expensive original version; instead, they use the instant variety that comes in sachets. Some preferred it as it has a pleasant taste and is less acidic than the regular coffee.
Many tourists go in for the ‘once in a lifetime’ experience, as it is often termed “exclusive, most expensive and unique”. Some described it as the nicest coffee they had ever had, with an exquisite aroma and a lovely ‘after sensation’!
HCoffee connoisseurs believe that there is a huge difference in taste between Kopi Luwak made from wild civets and farmed civets: the latter being force-fed, with no choice in what berries they should be selecting to eat. Additionally, sick civets and those not getting their normal wild diet don’t have the same level of healthy enzymes and microbes in their stomach, which could also change the beans’ coveted “flavour profile”. According to chef Teuku Kelana, the craze for Luwak coffee is of recent origin, initially introduced by five-star hotels. He stated, “It is enough if we learn the art of picking right berries from Luwak. Why forcibly feed and stress the poor animal? We will only get poison instead of healthy enzymes. Coffee without the aid of Luwak tastes as good, if the beans picked are the best.”
I couldn’t agree more.
Keywords : Kopi Luwak, the world’s most expensive coffee, caffeine
Vijaya Pratap is a freelance journalist and a documentary filmmaker, based in Hyderabad. She specialises in the study of art, culture, history and wildlife.
Meet the Author – Vijayapratap
